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Stainless steel mesh build

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  • #16
    Re: Stainless steel mesh build

    Oh yes, apka favourite atty :P
    Didnt see the name carefully bhai, i guess :P

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Stainless steel mesh build

      The wick on wick method works well because you use something like 200 mesh in the center, which wicks max VG very well. The 400 or 350 mesh sleeve just makes sure that the contact area of coil with wick is higher due to the finer mesh, ensuring better heat transfer and fewer dry hits. This is my understanding at least.

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      • #18
        Re: Stainless steel mesh build

        No Sir
        As i mentioned, i have only 400 mesh
        I am vaping minotaur which will be like 50:50, i dont like high VG Rarely vape that - and only drip, if i do

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        • #19
          Re: Stainless steel mesh build

          But man, does this burn through juice or what - over 2ml vanished :P

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          • #20
            Re: Stainless steel mesh build

            Getting the satburn22 to work was more challenging than the kraken. The clone from FT is not perfect. For example, the wick hole is supposed to be 2.5mm , but is smaller - so its not a 1:1. Getting the coil to burn uniformly was a bit challenging. An issue is to get it to wick well, with such a reduced wick hole. Anyway, got it to work after some trials. Vaped a bit.
            Another issue with it that if you try to fill through the fill hole, then the eliquid comes out through the wick - really irritating, only option is to use a needle tip , so that a part of the fill hole can let air pass
            Another drawback is that its difficult to use any other drip tip with it, and i dont much like its stock drip tip as it has a very large bore, significantly reducing the taste on the tongue - i enjoy the taste of eliquids a lot, so that suffers.
            Will try it more and share my thoughts.

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            • #21
              Re: Stainless steel mesh build

              Just an update, the wick that i made on the kraken, lasted just half a day, as i was vaping NETs - they gunk like crazy - so the mesh also got gunked up - tried to dry burn, etc. But not much success. So made another one and made 3 wraps using 0.3 mm kanthal. With wick in wick, i am able to comfortably vape it till 17-18W - no dry hits - no tilting. But the first 0.5ml or so, i had to do some adjustment and experimentation - once the wicking got going, its doing well.
              Vaped some more cigar based NETs, just to see if it will gunk up or not ( cigar based NETs burn much cleaner than pipe tobacco NETs ) - but soon enough, the flavour started reducing.
              So i removed the coil and took out the mesh. Unwrapped it gently and washed it with soap and water thoroughly.
              Once cleaned, wrapped it back up, dry burnt it & repeated the coiling process - again after burning some juice through it, it is doing very well Coiling method i followed , this time:
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH5XHhgvFWQ
              But not vaping NETs in it now - other artificial juices mainly. Lets see how long it lasts

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Stainless steel mesh build

                Kalc bhai, one suggestion - if you're using a TP mod, try making a ni200 coil and just sliding in the mesh wick into it so that there is not too much contact between coil and mesh. Read that this works well even with an unoxidised mesh on ECF.

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                • #23
                  Re: Stainless steel mesh build

                  Python bhai, i guess you didnt read my original post - its one of the things i tried initially - realised that Ni is too soft and to get uniform contact was a challenge. And TP was not kicking in even when there were hot spots ( as it only reads the average temperature indirectly ) . I know that some places, they are selling a hard variant of Ni - might try that out also.
                  So for the time being, i am experimenting and gaining experience in repeatedly making wicks and coils using kanthal. Once i have sufficient experience under my belt , will again go abck and experiment with Ni & TP
                  Can you share the link of that post from ecf, please, bhai?

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Stainless steel mesh build

                    There is a very obvious problem with Ni builds on mesh on a TP mod - will write about that in sometime

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                    • #25
                      Re: Stainless steel mesh build

                      Kalc, yes I saw that first post. The point is that contact doesn't need to be uniform. Because both ss mesh and ni200 conduct heat very well, you should be fine with minimal contact between wick and coil. Anyway, here's the link - https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...h-wick.628762/

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Stainless steel mesh build

                        Ok , will have a look. My experience was not good at all, but will surely try later.
                        Anyway, coming to the issue that i see with TP mods & mesh.
                        Hotspot can be bcos of two reasons:
                        1. The wick is not oxidised well enough, as a result of which it is conducting part of the current, reducing the overall resistance - this will basically cause the resistance to jump around.
                        2. The wire is not in uniform contact with the mesh, as a result the part which is not in touch is getting overheated ( less heat dissipation ) and glowing. In this case, the resistance will not change ( with kanthal, very minor change ).
                        Now with a TP mod, if the second case occurs , no problem, if Ni200 wire is being used, its resistance will increase a bit depending on how much of the wire is heating up. If the resistance increases sufficiently, then the mod will of course, start modulating the power to control the average temperature of the wire.
                        But, if the first case occurs, then the resistance actually drops, in this case, the mod wont be able to regulate the temperature. It might change its base resistance value ( which will be a major problem ) or it might just increase the power - depends on the algorithm. In any case, the Temperature protection mode will not be able to act much in this case. So , in such cases, there is really no benefit of using NI & TP mod , i suppose.
                        Anyway, as i said, in my first trial, my experience was not good at all.
                        But will surely try again.
                        Thanks python for the link - will have a look now

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